Day 3: Big Four Ice Caves

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I came to the harsh realization yesterday that I was traveling during the shortest daytime period of the year.  The sun was rising at about 8:00 a.m. and setting before 4:30 p.m..  It was a difficult pill to swallow, but it also meant that I needed to capitalize on every ounce of daylight, thus 6:30 a.m. wake up calls are going to become the norm. 

Last night, Madison, a friend of Wiley's, came over and proposed that we head to the Big Four Ice Caves.  We decided thatMadison and her friend Jenny would pick us up at about 7:15 and we would head north towards Granite Falls.  Since I was in such a foggy state, the hour drive from Seattle to Granite Falls felt absurdly quick.  From Granite Falls, we needed to head east about 25 miles to the trail head.  The distance wasn’t inordinate, but the winding roads caused the leg to take longer than expected. 

We made a pit stop about 15 miles out from the trail head to explore Canyon Creek, which runs parallel to Mountain Loop Highway.  We vaulted over the guardrail and descended the mossy boulders to the riverbed.  The clarity of the frigid creek was stunning .  It must have been fed from glacial runoff and snow melt.  

Another five miles or so down the road we stopped again to take some photos in the middle of the highway.  We hung out in the middle of the road for about 15 minutes without a single car driving past us.  It really made me realize how isolated the Pacific Northwest can feel.  Just like Olympic National Park, you could go miles without seeing a single person. I took a few photos of Madison posting up. 

About 10 minutes after we finished our highway photoshoot it started to rain.  I knew from the beginning of the trip that the first two days were going to be the nicest days in Seattle, but there’s no way I could’ve ever comprehended how it rains in the PNW.  When it rains, it pours. 

We reached the picnic area at the base of Big Four Mountain at about 9 a.m.  About five minutes after stepping out of the car, it began to downpour.  Like, really downpour.  We headed back to the car for a few minutes, before we decided we didn’t have anything to lose, so we began our hike.

The hike up the caves was gorgeous.  The path winds about a mile through a heavily forested area brimming with massive downed trees and small streams. Near the beginning of the hike you pass over the Stillaguamish River and then you begin the 200 foot vertical ascent towards the caves.

The trail itself was very well maintained and was composed of gravel and wood.  The hike was very easy, so no worries about being too exhausted to appreciate the views. 

After about 20 minutes of hiking, we exited the forest into the rock field in front of the caves.  Upon seeing the cave, we were astounded by the sheer size of them.  Even from a distance, it looked like a massive hole in the side of the mountain.  The caves were enveloped by the sheer cliffs of the surrounding mountain.   Several small streams were cascading down the rock face and dissipating into the abyss.  The field in front of the cave was covered in boulders of various sizes as well as ice blocks that had torpedoed down the mountain beyond the crevasse.  It was a scene straight out of the Lord of the Rings. 

We were completely soaked by the time we came upon the entrance to the caves.  Standing there, at the mouth of the lowest-lying glacier in the United States, was such an amazing feeling.  Having already accepted the dangers of entering the cave, we needed no further discussion, so we pressed on.  Gaining admittance to the cave was easier said than done, the icefall was incredibly slippery and I had to be very intentional with each step.

Madison had already raced ahead towards the waterfall at the back of the cave, but I was more than okay simply taking my time.  The interior of the cave was dark and ominous.  Water trickled down from the ceiling; more heavily in some spots than others.  Large blocks of ice that had fallen from the roof of the cave lay throughout.  About halfway to the back of the cave there was a small stream which made birth from the waterfall. 

Wiley and I caught up with Madison, who had already made it to the back of the cave, but had come back for us, and we all edged closer to the falls.  As we moved deeper and deeper into the cave, we all realized how dark it was.  It was extremely difficult to see.  The waterfall at the back of the cave was also deafening and spewing a thick mist into the air.  It was all very disorienting.  Especially being in such a dangerous location.

We admired the glacial waterfall for a mere 15 minutes before trekking back outside.  Once out of the cavity,  I honestly came to the realization that what we had done was extremely dangerous and life-threatening.  We were all very thankful that we had made it out safely. 

Still raining, we hiked west up a steep incline towards another boulder field, where we found a small fort made out of timber.  hung out there for a bit before hiking down the mountain .  We were completely soaked by the time we reached the car.  I don't think I've ever been that wet in my life.  

Today was truly amazing.  Exploring is so much fun when you're with the right people.  I think tomorrow we're heading to Snoqualmie Falls, so that's exciting!

Day 2: The Olympic Peninsula

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Checkout my guide to the Olympic Peninsula here

"Make the most of every minute of today." - That's what I told myself when the most maddening alarm tone I could find on my iPhone awoke me at 6:30 this morning.  After a few minutes of  deserved grogginess, I pulled myself off of Wiley's couch and began preparing for the day.  Our plan of attack for today was to be out the door at 7:00 and make our way down through Tacoma and Olympia and then west along Highway 8 until we hit Highway 101 in Aberdeen, which would take us north into Olympic National Park.  I might sound naïve saying this, but I didn't realize how long of a drive it would be out to the peninsula, thus the early wakeup.  Looking on map, I could see that the linear distance between the coast and Seattle is about 95 miles, but since the Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountain Range lie amidst the linear route, the only roads to the coast  lead around the obstructing landforms.  

As we made our way south down Interstate 5 I caught my first glimpse of Mount Rainier's silhouette in the distance.  It looked other-worldly; like a cloud that was tethered to the ground.  Even from miles and miles away, the mountain loomed over the surrounding landscape.  Hopefully I'll able to visit and maybe even climb it someday.  After stopping for gas and Starbucks near Tacoma, we turned towards the port-town of Aberdeen. 

After we merged north onto Highway 101, the trees began to grow larger and they began to hug the shoulder of the road.  It was as if driving down a hallway of leaves.  The landscape was simply incredible.  We pulled off onto the shoulderabout 10 miles short of our first destination, Lake Quinault, because we simply couldn't not take some photos. 

We arrived at Lake Quinault shortly after 10 a.m., so with only one stop, the total commute was about three hours. 

Seattle to Lake Quinault: 153 miles - 3 hours 5 minutes

The weather at the lake was the definition perfect. You truly haven't experienced fresh air until you're among one of the world's most thriving forests.   The lake was swelling from the recent rain and had impeded onto the shoreline grass. 

Since we were on a short schedule, we had to move quickly between the places we wanted to see, so we moved on from the lakefront after about 15 minutes and headed toward the "World's Largest Sitka Spruce."

Located adjacent to the Lake Quinault lodge and accessible via a very, very short trail, we knew we had to see it.  The mammoth is 191 feet tall and has a trunk diameter of 59 feet.  Simply amazing. 

After returning from the Spruce tree, we headed up one of the many trails accessible via South Shore Road (the only road on the south side of Lake Quinault).  We ventured deep into the Quinault Rain Forest through some of the most incredible scenery I’ve ever seen.

About a mile into our hike we stumbled upon one of my favorite locations of the day and you can learn more about how to get there here.   

Leaving the Quinault Rain Forest was not a happy moment. Quite truthfully, up until that point in the day, I didn't realize how much more there was to see.  We got back to the car at about 1:30 and proceeded north along Highway 101 towards the coast.  

The amount of logging between Lake Quinault and our next destination, Kalaloch Beach, was incredibly depressing.  I couldn't even begin to describe the carnage.  We ended up stopping at a logging field to walk around a bit, which is much easier said than done.  The combination of mud, branches and wet sawdust created something close to quicksand. One misstep and you were knee deep in something unpleasant. 

We eventually reached Kalaloch Beach 1 at about two in the afternoon.  There was a small parking lot at the trailhead that we left the Jeep at and then we proceeded towards the beach.  The trail wound through a thick seaside cluster of trees before descending a steep hillside to the water's edge.  The beach was littered with thousands of felled redwoods that had been swept ashore and had been worn by the elements.  It was quite a sight.  

About 10 minutes after we arrived at the beach, Wiley came across this large glass green sphere wrapped in a thick rope.  Not really knowing what it was, we brought it back to the car only to learn that it was a Japanese glass fishing float. Apparently, the floats were once used by fishermen in many parts of the world to keep their fishing nets, as well as longlines or droplines afloat. The spheres were strung together in groups sometimes 50 miles long and were sit adrift in the ocean. Since these floats have been in use for about 100 years now, the one we found may have been lost in the Pacific for decades, traveling thousands of miles uninhibited and free. The world is an incredible place.

From Beach 1 we made the 20 minute drive up to Ruby  Beach.  Ruby Beach is one of the more well-known beaches on the peninsula because of its sea stacks, and it was also the first place we went where there was other people! Let me rephrase that, up until about 3:00 p.m., Wiley and I had run into a total of four people on our stops.  One person on the trail in the Quinault Rain Forest and three other people walking towards the World's Largest Sitka Spruce as we were leaving.  That's pretty incredible.  Ruby Beach was a bit difficult to photograph since it became incredibly foggy as we descended upon the beach.  Also, a stream was cutting off part of the beach that we really wanted to visit.  

We wandered around Ruby Beach for about an hour before we quickly set out for towards Kalaloch Beach 4.  One very important detail that I hadn't taken into account, one that would effect the entire three weeks I was on the road, was that the sun sets before 5 p.m. during late December and early January.  Thus, we really needed to make the most of every minute that the sun was up. Yikes...  

 Beach 4 at Kalaloch was definitely one of the highlights of the day.  It was indescribable.  The hike down to the beach was long and steep and ended at a wooded bridge over a small creek that ran into the ocean.  The beach itself was made up of tiny pebbles, which was a huge contrast from Beach 1, which was medium sized flat stones.  Both Wiley and I walked about a 1/4 mile towards a rock formation at the north end of the beach.  The formation was enormous and was covered in barnacles, sea anenomes and starfish.  We watched the sun set behind the cloudy sky and attempted to make the most of the rapidly fading light.  

Our day out on Olympic Peninsula was one for the books.  Truly one of the best days of my life.  We were completely exhausted by the time by got back to Seattle.  After spending nearly 8 hours in the car and going much of the day without food, we were ready to crash.  I don't know what tomorrow holds yet, but I'm sure it'll be a good one.


 

 

 

 

Day 1: Seattle

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Waking up at 4.a.m. is a special occasion.  It's one of those events you anticipate and dread at the same time.  Falling asleep is nearly impossible and you awake more tired than the night before.  Everything moves so slowly, but quickly at the same time.  That was the case this morning.  After four and half years of college, including two straight years of summer session (to catch up on credits lost to transferring schools), I was about to embark on my first post-graduation adventure. 

Let's back up a bit...

About a month ago, my friend Kassidy (@kassidyrenee) invited me to road trip more than 3000 miles down the West Coast from Seattle to Los Angeles, and then through the Great American Southwest back to Minneapolis.  Along with her friend Clancy, we would gallivant across some of the most beautiful terrain in the country and focus on taking photos along the way.  I knew I had to go, so after sorting out my finances and clearing my work schedule, I bought my one way plane ticket to Seattle-Tacoma International Airport. 

Back to now...

As my girlfriend drove me to the airport for my 6:00 a.m. flight I had that ominous feeling that I had forgotten something, but overall, I was brimming with excitement.  After checking my bag, I proceeded through security relatively quickly and found a lounge seat near my gate where I sat in my post-three-hours-of-sleep haze for the next hour. 

The flight from Minneapolis to Seattle was about three hours long, which was enough time for me to watch an episode of "Lost" (what's wrong with me?) and close my eyes for a bit.  The greatest part about flying from east-to-west during sunrise is that you're essentially racing the sun.  The sun would come up over the horizon for a bit, and then would set again as the plane pushed forward.  Such a unique experience.

Sea-Tac airport is amazing. Plain and simple. If you ever get a chance to fly into that airport make sure to take the time to appreciate the beautiful glass walls in the food court.  

My good friend Wiley (@wileyput) had invited me to stay with him for a few days before meeting up with Kassidy which was an absolutely amazing thing of him to do since I wouldn't have had any time to explore Washington if it wasn't for him.  After a short scare at baggage claim that the suitcase containing all of my clothing for the next three weeks and been lost, I found Wiley parked outside. 

I guess this is where the real adventure begins...

Having never been to Seattle before I definitely wanted to get a good view of the skyline from afar before actually heading into the city, so Wiley took me to this awesome viewpoint in the Beacon Hill neighborhood.  Wow wow wow. 

First impression: Seattle is the most beautiful city I've ever seen. 

From Beacon Hill we headed downtown to the infamous Pike Place Market.  I hadn't heard much about the Market prior to visiting it, so I wasn't sure what to expect.  Honestly it was one of the most unique urban places I've ever been.  The Market sits atop a steep hill overlooking the Puget Sound and is home to tons of shops, food stands and a restaurant or two.  Apparently it's the 33rd most visited tourist attraction in the world! 

Verdict: If you don't have money to spend this place will be cool for about 30 minutes, but definitely don't miss it if visiting Seattle for the first time.  Definitely an epicenter of culture! 

From Pike Place we headed down towards the waterfront to Pier 62 and 63 which was this massive pier jutting out into the Sound.  The pier was almost entirely deserted save for a few fisherman and some seagulls.  I couldn't believe how beautiful the weather was.  With the slight breeze coming off the water and the temperature hanging around the mid-50's it was absolute heaven compared to the Minnesota tundra I had departed from.  It was perfect jean-jacket weather. 

Pier 62/63 had incredible views of the Olympic Mountain Range as well as the skyline.  Definitely a must-visit place. The view of the city from the pier was just simply incredible.  From the pier we climbed the Bayfront Steps and ventured towards Columbia Center. Here are just a few observations along the way.  

Columbia Tower is the tallest building in Seattle and is the second tallest skyscraper on the West-Coast.  The Sky View Observatory on the 73rd floor of the tower is 902' above street level and offers 360 degree views of downtown Seattle, the Olympics and Mount Rainier (on clear days).  It's about twice as tall as the Space Needle and half the price! The fee for the observatory was only $9 a person with our expired student IDs.  The view speaks for itself. 

We stayed atop the observation deck of the Columbia Center for a good hour before we both realized how hungry we both were.  The gut rot became so real, so quickly.  Pizza seemed like a good idea (always a good idea), so after skimming Yelp for a few minutes we settled on a place called Mod Pizza, which was located on 6th Avenue, just a few blocks away from the tower.  Having never heard of Mod Pizza before I wasn't sure what to expect.  

Upon entering Mod Pizza you're directed to a Subway-like food line where you can select your sauces, meats and toppings.  The pizzas are sort of an Americanized style with a Neapolitan brick-oven flare.  Each pie  is made-to-order, so you're allowed to customize it to your liking, and then it is tossed into a fiery oven for about 90 seconds!  Being a classic-topping pizza enthusiast, I ordered a 10" pepperoni pizza with spicy Italian sausage and a soft drink.  My total was about $10, which was pretty decent for the amount of food we were given.  All-in-all, the pizza was really great! The restaurant itself was nice and quiet, so we took some time to catch our breaths and discuss what was on the agenda for the rest of the week.  

After filling our stomachs with some 'za, we headed to Glazer's Camera, which is hands down the best camera store I've ever been to! The store is located on the north end of downtown and carries anything a traveling photographer would ever need.  They have a large variety of different films kept in the fridge at the back of the store and they also offer lens rentals at their satellite facility a few blocks down from the main store.  After ogling some  Canon L Lenses for what seemed like a lifetime, I ended up purchasing five rolls of Kodak Portra 400 and some additional packs of Instax 210 film.  

From Glazer's, we headed to Gas Works Park.  Gas Works Park is located on the north shore of Lake Union facing downtown Seattle.  The 20 acre park contains the remains of the sole coal gasification plant in the United States.  Though production ceased about 60 years ago, the buildings and manufacturing structures still remained, so the city of Seattle purchased the facility and transformed the area into a park, which opened to the public in 1975.  The park was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2013 and remains as a symbol of the Seattle's industrial history.  Paired with its historical significance, the park also offers unbeatable views of  Seattle's skyline across Lake Union.

After being at Gasworks for a while, we headed downtown yet again to watch the sunset from Columbia Center's Sky View Observatory.   The Observatory was a bit more crowded than earlier today, but it was definitely still manageable.  

A healthy tip for anyone visiting the Observatory -- if you're planning on taking photos after the sun goes down and you want to avoid the interior window reflections, the staff will be more than happy to shut the lights off for you! Yay! 

We spent a few hours taking in the views of the city before heading back to Wiley's condo in Factoria.  What a day.  Seriously, today was one of the best days I've ever had and I couldn't be happier.  I captured only 297 photos today, which is quite conservative for me, but I'm really happy with the results.  I couldn't help but to just take everything in. Sometimes you just have to set the camera down and appreciate your surroundings beyond the viewfinder.  

The last photo in that set is my favorite photo I took all day! I was able to set up my tripod on a little table they had near the window and capture a 30 second exposure.  Honestly, have you ever seen a more beautiful city? I fell completely in love with Seattle today.  The waterfront, the beautiful architecture and just the general vibe was like nothing I've experienced before.  I can't wait to see what the next few days hold.  We're heading to the Olympic Peninsula tomorrow for a day trip and I have a feeling it's going to be an extraordinary adventure. 

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